Chúng tôi lên Cao Sơn (Mường Khương) vào một ngày mùa thu, tiết trời se lạnh ở Cao Sơn khiến ta ngỡ như buổi đầu đông.
Trái ngược với hình ảnh một phiên chợ vùng cao ngày mưa ảm đạm, vắng người qua lại trong tưởng tượng của chúng tôi, chợ phiên Cao Sơn hôm ấy vẫn đông vui, nhộn nhịp.
6h, anh Hoàng Văn Hùng ở thị trấn Mường Khương tất bật sửa soạn đồ nghề cắt tóc, chằng ở phía sau chiếc xe máy, sau đó phủ một lớp áo mưa bên ngoài, rồi vội vã lên Cao Sơn cho kịp phiên chợ. Đồ nghề của anh chỉ có mấy vật dụng: Một chiếc gương khổ nhỏ hình chữ nhật, dăm ba chiếc lược, kéo, tông-đơ và một chiếc ghế xoay đã cũ sờn. Đều đặn 6 năm nay, gần như anh không bỏ lỡ một phiên chợ nào ở đất Cao Sơn này.
Khách hàng đầu tiên của anh trong ngày là một cậu bé dân tộc Mông, được bố đưa đi cắt tóc chuẩn bị bước vào năm học mới. Anh Hùng tâm sự: Nghề cắt tóc ở chợ phiên đơn giản lắm, bởi người ta không cần kiểu cách, cầu kì, không có khái niệm chạy theo “mốt”; khi tóc dài, người ta đến quán cắt, tỉa gọn gàng, thế là được. Trung bình mỗi ngày chợ, anh có 7 – 8 khách hàng, với mức giá 20.000 – 25.000 đồng/lượt, tùy vào khách hàng là trẻ con hay người lớn, anh thu nhập được khoảng gần 200.000 đồng. Anh Hùng cho biết, khoảng thời gian đông khách nhất là từ 8h – 10h, bởi khi ấy, dân từ khắp nơi đến chợ đông nhất. 6 năm qua, cứ thứ Tư đi chợ Cao Sơn, thứ Năm qua chợ Lùng Khấu Nhin – cung đường từ thị trấn Mường Khương lên vùng cao Cao Sơn anh Hùng đã thuộc lòng, vì thế có nhiều khách hàng, anh đã quen mặt.
Hàng thổ cẩm thu hút nhiều khách đi chợ.
Cuộc trò chuyện với anh Hùng đã gợi cho tôi những thiện cảm về sự bình dị, gần gũi của chợ phiên vùng cao này. Không có sự ồn ào, bon chen hay vội vã, nhịp sống nơi đây cho ta thấy cái chân chất, mộc mạc của người vùng cao. Chẳng vậy mà, chợ Cao Sơn là một trong những chợ phiên của huyện Mường Khương vẫn còn giữ được nét bản sắc độc đáo và tạo dựng được thương hiệu, trở thành điểm đến hấp dẫn của những du khách thích trải nghiệm, khám phá.
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Chợ mang đậm màu sắc của đồng bào các dân tộc vùng cao khu vực Cao Sơn, như Mông, Phù Lá, Nùng… Mỗi tuần, chợ chỉ họp một phiên vào thứ Tư. Đến ngày họp chợ, ngay từ sáng sớm, trên mọi nẻo đường đã thấy người dân ở các thôn, bản từ Lùng Khấu Nhin, La Pan Tẩn, Cao Sơn theo nhau về chợ. Lần đầu tiên đặt chân đến đây, hình ảnh từng tốp người đông vui, người thì gùi hàng, người thì chở đồ xuống chợ bằng xe máy, xe đạp… khiến chúng tôi cảm nhận rõ vẻ đẹp của chợ phiên vùng cao.
Trước đây, đường tới chợ Cao Sơn đi lại rất khó khăn, có khi đi bộ nửa buổi mới tới chợ, ngựa là phương tiện chủ yếu giúp người vùng cao đi lại và chở hàng hóa. Năm 2013, khi Chương trình xây dựng nông thôn mới được triển khai tại đây, các tuyến đường liên thôn đã được đổ bê tông, giúp người dân đi lại và giao thương. Giờ đây, người dân đi xuống chợ bằng xe đạp, xe máy, thậm chí là ôtô rất thuận tiện.
Nơi đầu tiên chúng tôi đến tham quan là khu bán đồ thổ cẩm. Những gian hàng nhỏ được dựng tạm, trên tấm bạt trải dưới nền đất, người ta bày bán váy, áo, khăn với màu sắc sặc sỡ. Khi chúng tôi tới sạp, chị Giàng Dô đang bận chào mời mấy vị khách mua hàng. Chị Dô sống ở thôn Bãi Bằng, xã La Pan Tẩn, bán hàng tại chợ phiên Cao Sơn được hơn chục năm. Sạp hàng của chị không rộng lắm, nhưng khá đông khách. Ở người phụ nữ vùng cao này, cái duyên thể hiện từ nụ cười, câu nói. Sau một hồi bận rộn với người mua, chị Dô dành thời gian cho chúng tôi. Tay chỉ vào bộ trang phục của người Mông được treo ngay ngắn, chị bảo đây mới là trang phục truyền thống được làm thủ công, chứ váy áo dưới sạp đều được may công nghiệp, vì vậy giá tiền cũng có sự chênh lệch lớn. Váy, áo “công nghiệp” có nhiều loại, giá từ vài chục nghìn đồng đến vài trăm nghìn đồng, nhưng nếu là đồ thủ công làm bằng tay, mỗi bộ có giá vài triệu đồng. Chị cho biết thêm: Mùa mua sắm ở chợ Cao Sơn là đầu tháng 7 và tháng 12 âm lịch, đấy là thời điểm Rằm tháng Bảy, Tết Nguyên đán, nên người ta sắm sửa áo quần, sửa soạn đi chơi tết. Vào dịp này, có ngày, chị Dô bán được gần chục triệu đồng. “Nhưng giờ thì vắng khách, ngô năm nay mất mùa, không bán được ngô, người ta không xuống chợ mua váy, áo” – chị Dô bảo. Hóa ra, giao thương ở chợ vùng cao còn phụ thuộc vào lúa, ngô!
Chợ ở vùng cao nào cũng phân chia theo khu: Khu ăn uống, khu bán đồ may mặc, khu nông sản… Chợ phiên Cao Sơn cũng vậy. Chợ Cao Sơn không chỉ là nơi trao đổi, mua bán hàng hóa, mà còn để những du khách biết đến những sản vật của địa phương như gà đen, thảo quả, táo, lê, mộc nhĩ, rượu ngô, rượu thóc, mật ong…
Chúng tôi dừng chân ở phía cuối chợ, đây là khu vực bán gùi với những chiếc gùi tre được bày bán. Anh Ma Seo Thào, thôn Pa Cheo Phìn B, xã Cao Sơn, tay bận rộn xếp lại những chiếc gùi khách vừa xem vào một góc cho gọn, vừa tiếp chuyện chúng tôi. Theo anh Thào, ở vùng cao, nhà nào cũng có dăm ba chiếc gùi dùng đi làm nương, địu đồ khi đi chợ, chỉ sợ không làm kịp để bán, chứ làm gùi thì không lo ế. Mỗi chiếc gùi có giá từ 180.000 – 200.000 đồng, thời điểm đông khách, anh Thào bán được hơn chục chiếc gùi/phiên chợ.
Trời dần về trưa, mây quang, sương tan dần, những mái bạt chỉ còn sót lại vài giọt nước mưa chưa kịp rơi xuống đất. Chợ vẫn huyên náo bởi người mua, người bán, những chiếc xe du lịch chở khách tới cũng nhiều hơn. Nhìn từng đoàn khách du lịch nước ngoài vào chợ tham quan, ngó nghiêng những gian hàng với vẻ thích thú, chúng tôi càng khẳng định được sức hấp dẫn của chợ phiên Cao Sơn. Sẽ không lâu nữa, khi chợ Cao Sơn mới được đưa vào khai thác, với những gian hàng được sắp xếp quy củ, thuận tiện cho tham quan và giao thương, sẽ là điểm dừng chân đầy hứa hẹn của du khách bốn phương khi đến xứ Mường.
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